San Juan Hill The Forgotten History of Manhattan's Jazz Hub

Before the world-renowned performing arts complex of Lincoln Center stood in the Upper West Side of Manhattan, the land was home to a vibrant, diverse community known as San Juan Hill (also referred to as Columbus Hill). Once one of the largest African-American communities in New York City before World War I, San Juan Hill was a cultural melting pot of African-American, Afro-Caribbean, and Puerto Rican residents.

The Origins and Etymology of San Juan Hill

The naming of San Juan Hill remains a subject of historical debate. Some believe the name refers to the Spanish–American War of 1898 fought in Cuba, potentially because African-American veterans of that conflict settled in the area. Other theories suggest the name arose from the frequent ethnic clashes between African-American and Irish-American gangs in the neighborhood.

A Cultural Epicenter Jazz and "The Jungles"

In the late 19th century, African-Americans migrated to San Juan Hill from "Little Africa" in Greenwich Village. The neighborhood became a thriving center for art and music, often nicknamed "The Jungles". This moniker was popularized by Jewish jazz clarinetist Mezz Mezzrow, who was inspired by the piano playing of James P. Johnson, a San Juan Hill native.

The area was famous for its basement clubs, ranging from gritty dives to high-end venues. One such spot, the Jungle Cafe, is reputedly the birthplace of the Charleston dance. This legacy of musical innovation continues today through the presence of Jazz at Lincoln Center.

A Diverse Community

Beyond its musical fame, San Juan Hill was a hub of community organization. The neighborhood hosted numerous African-American churches, such as St. Mark's Methodist Episcopal and Mt. Olivet Baptist, as well as fraternal organizations like the Colored Freemasons and the Negro Elks.

Between 1910 and the 1950s, the neighborhood also supported a significant Japanese American community of 2,000 to 5,000 people. Many were bachelor issei who found affordable rents in the area due to residential redlining elsewhere. Following World War II, many Japanese Americans returning from internment camps resettled here before they, too, were displaced.

Urban Renewal and Displacement

The erasure of San Juan Hill was a result of mid-20th-century urban renewal projects led by Robert Moses. In the 1940s, the New York City Housing Authority designated the area as a slum, labeling it "the worst slum district of New York City." Using the mechanism of eminent domain under the Housing Act of 1949, the city seized land to create housing for the middle class and the performing arts complex of Lincoln Center.

This process displaced over 17,000 residents, predominantly lower-income families of color. This transformation is now cited as an early and stark example of urban gentrification. In a gesture of remembrance, the David Geffen Hall (formerly Avery Fisher Hall) opened in 2022 with a tribute to the lost community of San Juan Hill.